Shoe



L. O. PICKETT June 24, 1930.

SHOE

Filed Sept. 18. 1928 M M w M W INVENTOR LymdflQ HC/refl F k wi 'ATTORN Patented June 24, 1930 UNITED STATES} PATENT OFFICE LYMAN O. IPICKETT, OF BIIiTGHAMTON', NEW YORK,.ASS IGI\TOR OF ONE-HALF W. VALENTINE, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

TO PERCY SHOE Application filed September 18, 1928. Serial No. 306,759.

This invention relates to shoes and more particularly to shoes of the stitch-down type. This application is a continuation in part of my copending application Serial No.

160,626, filed January 12, 1927.

Heretofore it has been the practice to make such a shoe by using an inner sole formed from a blank which is cut to a larger size than the normal size of the sole to provide a flap which is formed by cutting away a layer of the excess material to leave a relatively thin surrounding portion to serve as a flap for the subsequent lasting and sewing operations in manufacturing the shoe. In

order to permit the lining to be lasted to the inner sole the flap must be turned back after which it is restored to its original position for the lasting of the upper which is .first stapled or stitched to the flap and then the attached upper and flap are sewed to the outer sole with a welt placed above the outwardly turned edges of the upper.

It is an object of this invention to avoid the disadvantages of the method described above by obtaining a saving in leather and simplifying the manufacture of the shoe, by requiring fewer operations thereby promoting ease of manufacture and lessened cost.

This general object of the invention is obtained by cutting an inner sole to the exact size of the last, which sole is then bevelled for the subsequent attachment of the lining. A channel flap is formed by an outwardly extending cut around the marginal portion of the inner sole. After the lining is lasted in over the bevelled edge of the inner sole, the flap is turned outwardly for the subse-; quent operation of lasting the upper out- 40 wardlyto the outer sole or to the middle sole in case one is used.

The particular nature-of the invention as well as other objects andadvantages thereof will appear most clearly from a description of a preferred embodiment as shown in the accompanying drawing in which Fig. 1 is a transverse sectional view of the shoe taken substantially in the plane inclicated by the line 11 of Fig. 5; 1

Fig. 2 is a transverse sectional view on a larger scale of the blank used for. forming the sole after its edges have been bevelled;

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the outwardly directed cut in the sole for forming the flap;

Fig. 4 is a similar view'showing the flap portion turned outwardly for sewing; Fig. 5 is an inverted plan view of the sole showing the flap partly raised, but only partly turned outwardly to more clearly illustrate the entire formation of the sole.

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary sectional view of a modification of the invention.

A blank 1 of suitable leather is first cut to the exact size of the last and then bevelled as at 2, preferably on the flesh side of the leather which will be the inner surface of the sole in the completed shoe. By means of a suitable knife a slit 3 is then cut in the flesh portion of the sole and around all of the sole except the heel portion to form 'a r channel flap 4 which is subsequently turned outwardly for the lasting and sewing operations.

As shown'most clearly in Fig. 1 the lining 5 is lasted, preferably by cement, overthe bevelled edge 2 of the inner sole and over a portion of the flap b'efore the latter is turned out, thereby eliminating one of the operations of the previous methods of forming stitch-down shoes in which the flap must be turned back to permit the lining to be lasted over the bevelled edge of the inner sole and then restored to its original position for the subsequent operation of lasting the upper. The inner sole and lining are then placed upon an outer sole 6 and the upper 7 is lasted in place by staples 8 passing through the flap and clinching into the outer sole. If desired a filler 9 may be placed between the inner and outer soles as shown in Fig. 1, or

the usual forms of shanks or arch supports may be used between the inner and outer soles for the different types of shoes.

In accordance with the usual practice the shoe is completed by a welt 10 which is sewed in place by stitching 11 passing through it, the flap 4 and the outer sole 6. While for simplicity a unitary outer sole has been shown, it will be understood that the invention may equally well be used in shoes in which the outer sole is made up of two soles in which case the inner sole of the invention, the lining and the upper will first be lasted to the middle sole in the same manner as when a single outer sole is used, after which the outer sole is put on in the usual Way.

As shown most clearly in Fig. 5 the flap 4 may be cut at intervals around the toe of the shoe as indicated at 12 to permit it to be turned outwardly for the subsequent sewing operations.

In Fig. 6 is shown a modification of the invention in which the preliminary lasting operation is performed by stitching together, as at 12, the flap 4 and the edge portions of the lining and the upper, after which the portions of the fiap and lining beyond the stitching are trimmed ofi close to the stitching as indicated at 13. The edge of the upper extending beyond the stitching is then turned outwardly and together with a welt 10 is stitched, as at 11, to the outer sole 6 to support to the outturned flap for the subsequent lasting operations, thereby avoiding the disadvantages of the previous method in which the upper is first lasted to the thin flap with resulting tendency to get out of shape during the remainder of the manufacturing operations.

While a preferred embodiment of the invention has been shown and described it will be understood that it may be embodied in other forms and that it may be used for forming inner soles out of any kind of material adapted for this purpose without departing from the principle of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

I claim 1. A stitch-down shoe consisting of an inner sole cut to the exact size of the last and having a flap formed by making an outwardly extending cut in the marginal portion of the inner sole and outwardly turning the flap thus formed, a lining lasted to the edge of the inner sole, an outer sole, a welt,-

and an upper preliminarily lasted t0 the outwardly turned flap and to the outer sole I and permanently secured to the flap, the

outer sole and the welt.

2. A stitch-down shoe consisting of an inner sole cut to the exact size of the last and having a bevelled edge and a flap formed by making an outwardly extending cut in the marginal portion of the inner sole and outwardly turning the flap thus formed, a lining lasted to the bevelled edge of the inner sole, an outer sole, a welt, and an upper preliminarily lasted to the outwardly turned flap and to the outer sole and permanently secured to the flap, the outer sole and the welt.

3. A stitch-down shoe consisting of an inner sole cut to the exact size of the last and having a turned out flap formed by making an outwardly extending cut in the marginal portion of the inner sole and outwardly turning the flap thus formed, a lining lasted to the edge of the inner sole, an outer sole,

an upper'lasted to the turned outflap and to the outer sole, and a welt stitched to the outwardly lasted portion of the upper, the flap and the outer sole.

4. The method of forming a stitchdown shoe which consists in cutting an inner sole to the exact size of the last and producing a flap thereon by an outwardly extendin cut in its marginal portion, lasting a lining to the edge of the sole, turning out the flap, preliminarily lasting an upper to the flap and to an outer sole, and permanently stitching the upper, flap and outer sole to a welt.

5. The methodof forming a stitch-down 1 shoe which consists in cutting an innersole.

t0 the exact size of the last, bevelling the edge of the sole, producing a flap thereon by an outwardly extending cut in the marginal portion of the sole, lasting a lining to the beveled edge of the sole, turning out the flap, preliminarily lasting an upper to the flap and to an outer sole, and permanently stitching the upper, flap and outer sole to a welt.

6. The method of liorming a stitchdown shoe which consists in cutting an inner sole to the exact size of the last and making 1n the marginal portion thereof a cut to produce a channel flap, lasting a lining to the edge of the sole, turning out the flap, lasting an upper to the flap and to an outer sole, and stitching together the upper, flap, outer sole and a welt placed on the lasted portion of the inner sole and outwardly turning the flap thus formed, a lining lasted overthe edge of the inner sole, an upper outwardly lasted over the turned out flap and secured thereto, an outer sole, means for securing the lasted out portion of the i upper to the outer sole, and a welt placed upon the lasted out portion of the upper and secured thereto solely by said securing means.

8. The method of forming a stitch-down shoe which consists in cutting an inner sole to the exact size of the last and producing a flap theron by an outwardly extending cut in its marginal portion, lasting a lining over the edge of the inner sole, turning out the flap, lasting an upper to the flap, and securing the lasted out portion of the upper to an outer sole.

9. A stitch-down shoe comprising an inner sole cut to the exact size of the last and having a turned out flap formed by making an outwardly extending cut in the marginal portion of the inner sole and outwardly turning the flap thus formed, an upper outwardly lasted over the turned out flap and secured thereto, an outer sole, means for securing the lasted out portion of the upper to the outer sole, and a welt placed upon the lasted out portion of the upper and secured thereto solely by said securing means.

10. The method of forming a stitch-down shoe which comprises cutting an inner sole to the exact size of the last and producing a flap by an outwardly extending cut in its marginal portion, turning out the flap, lasting an upper outwardly over the flap and securing it thereto, and securing the lasted out portion of the upper and a welt placed thereon to an outer sole, the welt being secured solely by said securing operat1on In testimony whereof I aflix my signature.

LYMAN O. PICKETT. 

